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August 17, 2017 | JENNY LYNN

What the Fume?

Robert Mondavi did it, Mike Grgich did it, and now the newest cult winemaker in Napa Valley, Dave Bos is doing it.  I got a chance to sit down with Dave and taste his 2015 "Ode to Fume" but more importantly to learn what the FUME is FUME?  The 2015 Ode is a tantalizing, mouth-tingling, white wine that pays homage to both the varietal Sauvignon Blanc as well as those who championed it. 

Dave Bos’ 2015 Ode to Fume is a crispy new Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc and is a pleasure for every occasion. Dave spent 10 years at Grgich Hills and biodynamically farmed over 350 acres for Mike Grgich. He believed in the true potential of biodynamic farming and started his own business teaching vintners all over California his tricks of the trade. In the process, his Midas touch stumbled across killer vineyards that he couldn’t pass up making wine from. The 2015  “Ode to fume” Sauvignon Blanc is from several noteworthy vineyards in Calistoga.

So what the FUME’ is Fume Blanc? It’s okay, I needed a quick VinCyclopedia refresher too. I’ll give you 30 second elevator version.  Are you sitting?  Fume’ Blanc is actually a made up word……whaaaaa? I know I feel like I just exposed Santa. But it’s kind of like what Uber did for Taxi’s. So much cooler to take a taxi now that it’s called an Uber. In the late 60’s Sauvignon Blanc was like the kid that sat alone at the lunch table. Nobody understood him. No one accepted him. Misunderstood this varietal floundered until Mr. Mondavi wrapped his arms around the poor little guy and marched him straight up to the cool kids table. Mondavi did so by switching winemaking styles on his Sauvignon Blanc from sweet to dry.  He denoted the change to his customers by calling it “Fume Blanc, derived from Pouilly-Fume, which was one of the most popular dry-style Loire Valley wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. Rather than copywriting the name, Mondavi offered to allow anyone to use it to market their dry-style Sauvignon Blanc (even Dave Bos). The difference in style is often an addition of barrel fermentation and/or aging in oak which makes this style of SB a little more luscious, round, and less green than a stainless fermented SB.

So…. essentially today’s wine is an ODE to Fume which was an Ode to Pouilly Fume…Get the picture? Kind of like how Old New York was once New Amsterdam. I think we just all need a glass of this gosh darn delicious ODE that Dave and his wife Jackie made.

If you want to try this faux wine will have to do so in the next 48 Hours on our site!  Cheers!  Jenny


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